Effect of skin barrier competence on SLS and water-induced IL-1α expression

For screening of a potential irritant it is essential that an early marker for irritation should be chosen which could be detected before the physiological signs of irritation occur. Interleukin 1 alpha (IL-1α) is widely accepted as such a marker in both in vivo and in vitro test systems. In this study, we have determined the mRNA levels of IL-1α in the epidermis after topical application of sodium dodecyl sulphate (SLS) in both a commercially available epidermal kit (EpiDerm) and in excised skin. Furthermore, we have determined the effect of water, the vehicle for SLS, on IL-1α mRNA levels. Topical application of water to excised skin increases IL-1α mRNA levels sixfold in the epidermis whereas topical application of water to EpiDerm cultures did not alter IL-1α mRNA levels. This is explained by the finding that EpiDerm cultures have a sub-optimal barrier function when compared with excised skin - topical application of SLS was clearly toxic at much lower concentrations in EpiDerm cultures (0.2% SLS) than in excised skin (5% SLS). Also caffeine penetration was 1O-fold higher through EpiDerm cultures than through the excised skin. Therefore, incubation of control EpiDerm cultures at 100% humidity effectively mimics topical exposure to water. An additional increase in IL-1α mRNA levels observed between topical application of water and SLS is similar (about threefold) in both experimental systems. In conclusion, in vitro reconstructed epidermis models, such as EpiDerm, can be used as a predictive model for irritancy screening. However, great care should be taken when interpreting the results due to the fact that EpiDerm cultures do not have a competent barrier function and therefore lower irritant concentrations are required than in in vivo or ex vivo studies in order to induce cytotoxic effects. Furthermore, the irritant effects of the vehicle should not be neglected. Our results show clearly that the topical application of water to excised skin results in increased levels of IL-1α mRNA in the epidermis. This is a cytokine that is widely used as an early marker for skin irritation.